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Jan 06, 2009 at 04:49 PM

Extensions

Even though this site is for styling and maintaining natural hair, I wanted to create a basic section about hair extensions to answer some of the questions I've been recieving from tranisitioners. I don't claim to be an expert, but I do have some experience in this area.

There are many reason why a woman may wear hair extensions. Hair extensions are a quick and easy solution to different hairstyles and a great way to tranistion to natural. When wore correctly, they can protect the hair from cold winter air or heat damage. They also can be worn for something different. Maybe you want to briefly change your hair color, try a shorter or longer hairstyle, or want to wear your hair straight for a bit without possible damage from pressing combs or flat-irons. This is a great way to get that look temporarily without damaging your real hair.

This page will cover the various types of extensions you could wear, how to care for it and most importantly how to care and maintain your own hair in the meantime. Remember - just because you wear your hair natural does not mean you can't have fun with hair extensions once in a while. ;)

 

 

WIGS

Synthetic/Human Wigs

A 'wig' covers your entire hair. Some comes with bangs, a fake scalp part or built in clips to help hold it in place. There is a variety of synthetic and human wigs you can choose from in all colors, textures and lengths. They give you the versatility of having various hairstyles, while, protecting your real hair.

 

 

 

How to wash your wigs:

 

Use shampoos and conditioners specifically designed for wigs (or use Woolite). Regular shampoos are too harsh and can dry out the fiber, which could make your hairpiece very brittle and hard. There are special shampoos and conditioners that coat and protect synthetic fiber, leaving it shiny and preventing damage and color fading.

 

Steps:

1. Fill your sink with cool water and mix in a capful or two of shampoo.

2. Immerse your hairpiece in the water and let it soak for five minutes.

3. Gently swish the hairpiece back and forth then rinse with cool water until all the shampoo is removed.

4. Refill the sink with cool water and mix in a capful or two of conditioner. Immerse your hairpiece and let it soak for two minutes.

4. Gently swish the hairpiece back and forth, then remove from water without rinsing.

5. Blot with a towel and allow your hairpiece to air dry on a mannequin stand. You can hang extensions,clip-ons, or snap ons on a hanger. You can hang the drawstrings on hairspray cans also.

6. When dry, gently shake your hairpiece, then style as usual.

 

NOTES: DO NOT USE HEAT to dry your synthetic hairpiece. This will melt the fiber. Also try not DO NOT comb or brush the hairpiece until it is completely dry. If you have a "textured" wig or hairpiece, after washing, all you have to do is shake it and hang it up!

 

Wig Accessories: Here are a few tools I use to care for my wigs:

  • A wig cap or a stocking cap - For protecting your real hair from possible snags.
  • Woolite - Or any fine fabric wash with a neutral ph of "seven".
  • Plastic "Spray Bottle" - A cheap spray bottle for touching textured hair pieces.
  • Styrofoam Wig Heads - These come in all shapes & sizes.
  • A Metal Wig Stand - For letting your hair dry after washing.
  • Wig Clips - For keeping the wig in place.
  • A round cardboard box is used to place my hairpieces in while traveling.
  • Hairspray - To keep the strays at bay. Don't overuse, you make get flakes.
  • Baking Soda - For use in "washing". Eliminates smoke & other carbon based odors.

    YOU CAN PURCHASE EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR YOUR WIG HERE.

 

 

WIG FAQ'S

Q. WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HUMAN AND SYNTHETIC HAIR?

    SYNTHETIC HAIR

    PROS

    • Easier to handle
    • Less costly (compared to human hair wigs)
    • Can last a long time
    • Very durable
    • Require very little styling

    CONS

    • Can't use heat
    • Can't restyle. They are designed to stay and look the way you originally bought them. Trying to change or restyle them can cause poor results.

     

     

    HUMAN HAIR

     

    PROS

    • You can use heat with these wigs.
    • You blow-dry it and use hot rollers or a curling iron, or you may wet-set it and dry it under a hood hairdryer.
    • You can usually style them the way you want and often .
    • Can change styles very easily.

       

    CONS

    • Can be a bit pricey.
    • Heavier in weight than synthetic fiber, but human hair is the longest wearing of all fiber.
    • Human hair wigs require restyling each time it is washed.

     

 

Q. How can I protect my real hair while wigs?

    A. If you plan on wearing a wig for a week or two, I suggest that you first deep condition and put your hair in cornrows or flat-twists. Always remember to wear a wig cap over your hair (this is to protect your hair from getting caught on to the net and snap off. At night spritz your cornrows in a little water and oil the ends and cover with a stocking cap or a satin cap.

    If you want to wear a wig for a day or two depending on your length, you can place your hair into a loose ponytail and a wig cap over that. If your hair is shorter you can use clips or bobby pins to hold the hair back, then place a wig cap on.

     

    For both options, you can wet your hair and tie it with a scarf to keep your natural hair 'down'.

     

     

Q. How do I put on and wear my wig?

    1. Prepare your real hair. Look at the answer above for more details.

    2. Remove the hair net that came with the wig. if there is one.

    3. Give the wig a good shake to allow it to fall into place and to get rid of stray hairs.

    4. Hold your wig up - the label should go towards the back.

    5. Place it at the middle of you forehead and slide it on from front to back. Depending on the style of the wig, the top of the wig's cap should finally rest approximately ¼” past your natural hairline. When wigs are too forward at the front hairline, it will look unnatural.

Q. How do I store my wig?

    A. The best way to store your wig is on a Wire Wig Stand or you could even use a hat rack. This will keep your wig fresher and maintain its style. Keep your wig in a clean place, away from dust, sources of high heat, and humidity. Never enclose (except while traveling) in a box or plastic bag for long periods of time.

Q. Are there specific head sizes for wigs?

    A. Today's wigs all have adjustable caps to fit most heads. If you are not sure that you have an average size head by looking, measure your head with a tape measure going around the hairline, under the hair, behind the ears and around the nape of the neck.  Have someone help you if you find this too difficult. Check out this link for more information.

Q. How do I know which color or wig to buy?

    A. That decision is completely up to you! That's one of the best things about wearing wigs - you can experiment with hair colour without damaging your own hair! Here is a color chart to help guide you. To be honest, I find it is VERY hard to find a decent looking wig (for my tastes) that looks real and has a somewhat natural looking hair texture. I have to dig to find a wig that I like, the not too expensive and one that looks like me. I suggest going to a local wig shop and trying on wigs in your spare time.

Q. You have such pretty hair, just wondering why do you wear wigs and how often?

    Thanks! My natural hair loves humidity and warm weather - it does not agree with the winter. Where I live, the winters are rough, therefore wearing wigs has saved my hair from breakage. I also wear updos and buns, put I get tired of them quick! I also don't like the way I look when wearing cornrows out the house. Personally I think the key is not to depend wearing wigs. I only wear wigs sometimes during the winter and they serve multiple purposes for me:

  • Keeps my hands out my hair - Under the wig my hair is in cornrows or flat-twists.
  • Saves me time - Since I keep my hair braided underneath, all I have to do is throw my wig on and go!
  • Saves me money - Since I don't wear them often and take good care of them, 1 wig can last me for like 2 years.
  • Protects my hair from the cold winter weather - So it doesn't get dry and break off.
  • I can still do hair treatments to take care of my hair such as deep conditioning, the steam treatment and scalp massages.
  • It gives me options - I don't like the permenacy of braids or sew-in weaves (leaving them in for weeks).
  • I LOVE to switch styles, so I can not only do this with wigs, I can wear my real hair at anytime without feeling like I wasted money on professional weaves or getting braids. Just a quick unravel of the braids for a braid-out or a quick rinse for a puff is all it takes!

Q. How do I get the hair piece to stay on my head?

    For all of my wigs/hairpieces, if there is not a clips attached to the front here is what I do. Take a wig clip, a needle and hair weaving thread (for its strength). Then I sew at the top a few times. The wig clip goes in my hair to help hold and secure the hairpiece on my head. Works like a charm! Click to make bigger:

     

 

Falls/Wiglets

A 'fall' or 'wiglet' is a 3/4 hairpiece that sits at the crown of the head and blends in with your own hair. Start with your ready to be styled hair (pressed, or combed back into a ponytail etc.). Place the fall about at least one inch behind your own hairline. You can either blend in the rest of your hair by combing it back or just place the fall on your head and use a scarf or headband, like in the picture.

 

 

 

Headbang Wigs

A 'headband wig' is a full wig that comes with a piece of stretchy black material around the entire hairline. All you do is comb your hair straight back and slip on the headband wig! You could leave some of your hair out for bangs as well. To change your look, add a scarf around the headband. I use bobby pins to secure it on my head.

 

 

 

Clip-Ons, Drawstrings etc.

A 'clip-on' hairpiece usually has some type of butterfly clip where you can clamp on your own hair. A 'drawstring ponytail' is used by putting your hair into a ponytail, place the drawstring over your ponytail and literally pull the drawstring around the ponytail. In the photo, I put my hair into large twists, placed the twists into a ponytail, then placed the clip-on over my ponytail.

 

 

 

 

WEAVES

Do it yourself weaves can be done in a number of ways:

 

Tracking - Cornrow your hair, then sew the pieces of wefted hair into the cornow. See below for more details.

Bonding - Part your hair and use weave bonding glue to blend in with your hair. (I do not recommend this technique. It prevents your hair from breathing and can cause damage.)

Make yourself a Stocking Cap Weave. This is where the hair is glued to the stocking cap.

 

Weaves/Wefts

With this technique, small sections of your own hair are cornrowed in rows. This technique gives a more natural look than some of than other types, but to have medium to thick hair. Wefts are the little track that are located at the top of the weave. To give you a visual, hair that does not have wefts can be used for braiding.

Advantages:
- You can easily remove the hair piece, retighten the braids and redo the hairstyle.

- No chemicals are used during the entiee process.

- Doesn't matter if you use synthetic or real human hair.

Disadvantages
- For people with thin hair, it will create a bit of a bulge where attached.

- Can get uncomfortable to wear at times

- Can be heavy and put and put tension on the scalp, which leads to hair breakage.


Cost
Depending on the particular weave, it can cost $9.00 usd on up if you do it yourself.

Durability
Your weave should last about 1 to 3 months, then it needs replacing.

 

There are other professional techniques such as Infusion, Interlocking, Integration, Fusion and many others that I know nothing about. Go to this website for more info.

 

 

BRAIDS

Wearing braids is a great way to give your hair a break or to transition to natural with. You can get them professional done or check out this link to try and learn how to put in your own braids or twist extensions. Be care with braids. They can cause major damage to your hairline if you get a braider that don't care.

 

Types of braids:

  • Braids: Hair interweaved usually by three strands with or without hair extensions
  • Cornrows: Hair that is braided close the scalp in rows or designs
  • Bob braids: Chin-length braids in a bob style
  • Senegalese twists: Two-strand braids worn at various lengths
  • Micro braids: Extremely small braids that can have loose and wavy ends
  • Invisible braids: A smaller variation of microbraids that are deemed "invisible" because of the tiny connection between the natural hair and synthetic or natural hair
  • Tree braids: A technique similar to the Invisible braids where the stylist pull out a section of the hair to help disguise the braid and make the braids look more like straight hair.

 

CARING FOR YOUR BRAIDS:

  • When combing/brushing hair extensions start from bottom and work up. Hold braids with other hand.
  • To prevent dryness use spray conditioner daily prior to combing/brushing.
  • Keep your scalp clean. Use an astrigent such as sea breeze at least one a week.
  • Be sure to wash hair in one direction from top to bottom.
  • It is important to keep conditioner off braids. Also be sure to keep any silicone products off braids as well. Both can cause braids to slip.

 

BRAIDS Q's & A's

Q. How can I prepare my hair before getting braids?

    A. Give yourself a deep conditioning treatment. If you need a trim, trim before you get braids.

Q. Should I straighten hair before getting braids?

    A. According to braiders, the nappier the better. This is for the 'grip' factor. When they are braiding, it helps for the hair to be nappy to limit slippage. What I would do is prepare my hair by deep conditioning then put my hair into a few large twists and let air-dry. This helps to semi-straighten my hair without using damaging heat.

Q. How often should I wash my braids?

    A: That depends on your lifestyle and how often you sweat etc. I my braids in the shower once a week. I mixed a cap shampoo into a cup of warm water and poured over my braids, but I focused on the scalp. You also can clean your scalp with witch hazel or an astringent such as Clean & Clear. Take a cotton ball, pour the liquid on it (don't overabsorb - it will become drippy), apply to your scalp going in the same directions (not back and forth). Depending on how small your braids are you may need someone to help you out in the back.

Q. How can I takedown my braids?

    A: This is what I used to do:

    Cut the extension about 1 inch past your real hair. Wet your hair (or a section at a time) and saturate the braids with some detanging conditioner. At the beginning of the braid, rub gently between your finger tips to assist in loosing up the braid. Before I knew it, the braid unraveled and come a loose! This will be a lengthy process so be prepared.

Q. How long should I keep the braids in?

    A: This is completely up to you, but I would suggest no longer than 6 to 8 weeks at a time.

Q. How can I learn to do braids myself?

 

Braids allows you to keep your hands out of your hair and let it grow, but there are some precautions:

  • Give your hair a break from the braid once in a while.
  • Don't get your hair braided too tight and be careful around the hairline.
  • Don't leave them in for months and months.
  • When you take your braids out, you will see lots of shedded hair so don't be alarmed.

 

OTHER INFO

  • Click here if you are interested in hairstyle "how-to" videos.

Lastly ladies, when your hairpiece is starting to get old, please let it go! Here are some major signs that it time to get rid of your hair piece:

  • It has no luster
  • It doesn't feel secure on your head
  • Color is dulled out and the hair is frizzy or matted

Have fun experimenting with your hairpieces!